Hampta Pass Without Chandrataal
Introduction Nestled in the lap of the Himalayas, the Hampta Pass Trek stands as a testament to the…
Chandrakhani Pass carries one of the more evocative pieces of folklore found on any Himachal trekking route: local legend holds that a mountain goddess once walked this exact ridge on her way to a village gathering, and that anyone who follows the same path with pure intentions will be blessed with clear weather. Whether or not the legend holds any real influence over the notoriously changeable weather here, the pass itself delivers one of the widest simultaneous views of both the Kullu and Parvati valleys available from a single point in the region.
The trek begins at Naggar, a small town roughly halfway between Kullu and Manali, notable for its centuries-old Naggar Castle — a fortress built from alternating layers of stone and timber in a construction style unique to this part of the western Himalaya, and once the capital of the Kullu kingdom before power shifted elsewhere in the valley. Many trekkers spend an afternoon exploring the castle and its associated temples before setting out, giving the trek a cultural opening quite different from routes that begin at a simple road head.
From Naggar, the trail climbs through dense deodar forest — among the tallest and most impressive stands of this Himalayan cedar species found anywhere in Himachal — towards Rumsu village, a settlement still closely associated with the Jamlu Devta, a local deity central to several regional festivals, including the famous Kullu Dussehra celebrations held each autumn. Rumsu’s continued religious significance gives the early stages of the trek a genuinely lived-in cultural texture rather than simply functioning as a scenic approach.
Beyond Rumsu, the trail continues through Naya Thatch and into increasingly open meadow, with the forest thinning to reveal the first wide views back over the Kullu Valley floor, the Beas river a thin silver line far below. The high camp before the pass sits in this open meadow zone, offering a genuinely dramatic vantage point for both sunset and sunrise, with the Pir Panjal range visible along one horizon and the deeper folds of the Parvati Valley along another.
The pass crossing itself, at 3,660 metres, is reached via a moderate but sustained climb, non-technical but demanding enough to justify the trek’s overall moderate grading. From the top, the view is genuinely comprehensive — Kullu’s terraced valley floor on one side, the deeper, wilder Parvati Valley on the other, and on especially clear days, distant glimpses of higher peaks along the Spiti border further east.
The descent leads down into the Parvati Valley towards Rashol or onward to Malana, an isolated village with its own distinct customary law system and social structure, considered separate in tradition and practice from the rest of the valley — a detour some itineraries include specifically for the chance to see a settlement with such a genuinely unusual degree of cultural self-governance, though visitors are expected to observe the village’s own customs around physical contact with local property closely.
Because the trek combines genuine cultural depth — a heritage castle, an active local deity tradition, and one of Himachal’s most distinctive villages — with a comfortably moderate physical challenge, Chandrakhani Pass has become a favourite among trekkers looking for substance alongside scenery, all within a manageable five-day window.
Arrive at Naggar (1,760m). Visit Naggar Castle, briefing and gear check.
Trek through deodar forest via Rumsu village to the meadow camp of Naya Thatch.
Climb through open meadow towards the high camp below Chandrakhani Pass.
Cross Chandrakhani Pass (3,660m) with views of the Kullu and Parvati valleys, descend to the village of Malana.
Descend to Jari in the Parvati Valley and drive back to Kullu/Manali.